Behind the scenes at Berluti, the Made to Measure atelier in the heart of Paris (with itw)

It’s in the heart of Paris,rue Marbeuf, that Berluti, the famous Italian shoemaker’s “Made to Measure” workshop is located. Here, 10 craftsmen carefully work on the realization of a shoe. An original visit to this lair with a master shoemaker who highlights the first important element: patience.
Step One: Taking measurements, developing sketches and constitution of the shape in wood, the base to begin the construction of the shoe to the exact size of the foot.
Next, to the patternmaker’s room.
Third stage: the final shoe is made.
The shoe moves from one workbench to another, each step is very precise. The shoe is decked out in many layers of materials to protect the foot from the upper. The seams, made by the house are sewn and woven by hand. Everything is designed so that the foot is as comfortable as possible. Itw
The shoe is finally ready to be delivered in a sublime box in the color of the pair.
The LVMH group presents its 2nd edition of its ‘Journées particulières’ on the weekend of the 15th and 16th June 2013 in France, Italy, Spain, United Kingdom, Switzerland, Belgium and Poland.

Music free of right / Nikit & Bandit 2012

Jean-Michel Casalonga : We usually ask for 6 months, after the measurements are taken, it takes 3 months for a fitting and once the prototype is done, we spend 3 additional months to produce the final pair. Everything is made here from A to Z.

It’s in this room that we manufacture the uppers, so the upper is the top part of the shoe. Once he’s drawn, enveloped its shape and has drawn the lines of the model, he will take them out and flatten them on a card for the patronage.

The shoemaker receives the upper and the shape and he must deliver a pair of shoes.

In the end if you touch it, you have a shoe that’s very hard on the back, it doesn’t hurt but it’s firm and it supports the arch of the foot well. On the tip you also find a hard end between the two, something soft but something that will also maintain and preserve the shoe. We finish by a rubber corner, this helps prevent slipping, making noise, and it also eases vibrations for the back.

To finish we give a patina which will really bring life to the shoe so from a raw leather, we will really bring transparency and depth in colors which are specific to the house.

For a long time I think handmade things inspired ready-to-wear and today we must make by hand things that are as light, flexible and as comfortable as ready-to-wear and so yes I think inevitably this is a house which makes references, even if in other trades, the heart of the business is the same, we have the means at Berluti to express things that are completely crazy.

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