Acne Studios - Fall Winter Collection 2013/14 in Paris (with itw)
At acne studios, it's always about experiments, collaborations and new horizons as the founder, jonny johansson likes to emphasize. for the first time, the swedish label chose to present in paris (rather than london), after having asked katerina jebb to work with the house. the artist had access to the archives of fashion museum galliera in paris and was able to scan old garments as well as the linings. her photomontages were found on outfits of this mixed collection. inserts, patchwork and collages remain the watchwords. jackets in metallic leather all rounded and realized in shades of blue, brown, sea-green or white are worthy of a glance. also a lot of fluidity, through baggy trousers, hanging jackets, dresses finishing in trains for an urban look, always lightly staggered, essential for this brand which attracts many personalities like tilda swinton, clemence poesy, jane birkin.
music from fashion show
jonny johannsson : we're very functionalistic and we play a lot around generics, it's always this tailoring, the simple shirt, jeans, leather, bikers, whatever it is, and we sort of reinterpret them and this season was also because of the historic insert of the print. i also wanted it to be a quite straight forward silhouette so we didn't play with any historic silhouettes, so it's a lot of like apron pants, apron coats, so sort of layering, making it really effortless, some things were falling backwards because i wanted it to be relaxed, and because sometimes tailoring becomes so structured and severe.
i play a lot with natural materials, that's always the main focus for me , it's cotton, wool, satin, silks. the leather was bonded actually, we put velvet together with leather to make that sort of historic .